Board Game Info

by beagle757

Hello everyone, I looked through the rule book several times but was unable to find the effects of the keyword "independent". Does it have special rules or is it just for being referenced (such as with keywords like servitor of criminal)? Thanks for the help!

by HiveGod

[poll=58435]
All subsequent commentary is superfluous.

by Dorque

To EMP Pistol somebody's weapon, I need to target an 11. When I EMP grenade them, do I get to attack all of their energized eq with a bunch of 11 targets, or is everything just considered hit and broken.

by shnar

The tactics of many monsters say if a hero is "within one tile", do something. Does this mean if the hero is on the same tile as the monster, or on the same tile and adjacent? (I read that as adjacent but something's telling me that's not right)

-shnar

by Grumsh

I know this may sound like a goofball question, but has the game REALLY released to the masses? The reason I ask is because I ordered from Borders who says it wont be relased until September 21st, Amazon lists as September 10th, and I cant access wizards website to verify either way.

So if you got it, where did you buy from?

by shnar

When you defeat a monster, the controlling player discards the card into the "Heroes' Experience Pile." I can't tell, is this one pile for all heroes? And then if a hero wants to cancel a card or level up, he just takes from the pool (whether or not he contributed)?

-shnar

by gandalftheking

I got delivery today...

Started to set up....

Realized I had no Strahd card and no start tile, plus a few other bits...

Checked all other components fine, but sussed that there were only 12 not 13 tile cards in the box...

AArrrghhhhhh!!!!! Back to the retailer I guess...

by Seany4

If you win an area by having more power but do not have a suitable piece to move into the electors area (eg, no Barons/couples or only couples in one of the Diocese areas), I know you can't vote but do you get the special ability granted by winning that area?

Many thanks

Sean

by shnar

I'm playing my first game, and I haven't seen any mention of the "coffin" tokens. The first tile I drew was the Crypt of Artimus. Can I search this crypt? Or are these tiles just used in special adventures?

-shnar

by deathwing300

I was not sure on how to assign National Objectives to the two UK theaters... Do both capitals collect 5 if there are no german subs on the board?

by TazarYoot

Sorry if this has already been asked it's hard to keep tab on all the new threads.

I was wondering why the ranger appears to start with one less power than the other 4 heroes. The ranger doesn't appear to have an italicized default power. Is this intentional or a misprint perhaps?

Again I'm sorry if this has been asked already.

by kuhrusty

Hey, any chance someone will be bringing a playtest copy of this to BGG.CON?

If it will help, some of us want to play this game so badly that we're willing to take care of hotel accommodation[1] and entry to the convention![2]


[1] Cuddling optional.

[2] This will involve wearing someone else's name tag, but don't worry; that person will be released unharmed at the end of the convention, and there will be no evidence connecting you to the kidnapping.

by DrBrewhaha

I've stumbled upon CEO and am wondering if people are still playing there? If so, how many and how often? I would love to get involved.

by diplomacydave

Hey all.
Is anyone else concerned by the apparent lack of logic inherent in the Battle lore dice? Red, representing the heavies, clad head to toe in shiny mail and plate, are as easy to kill as the half-naked green guys. And yes, I can see that the green guys are more nimble, maybe better at dodging, but it seems to me that the heavies should be much more durable.

So here's what I have done: I bought a half dozen d12's. I primed them all white, and re-painted them. 1 red, 2 blue, 3 green, 2 lore, 2 flags, and 2 bonus yellows.

So, blue, lore, yellow and retreat all continue to come up 16.667% of the time. But red is reduced by 50% and green is increased by 50%.

The big question is: Is it right to tinker with the probability in a system that may be flawed?

I'd be interested to hear if anyone else cares about this, and if so, what people may have done about it.

And while I'm at it, has anyone ever played an old 1992 Milton Bradley game called "Battle Masters?" And if so, am I the only guy here who sees the extreme similarity? It is a hex-based fantasy wargame, with units made up of plastic minis. A deck of action cards dictates whom you can order, and the dice have swords and shields to indicate hits and defenses. Don't get me wrong; I LOVE Battlelore. But it may not be as original as we like to think.

by Speed Racer

What is the best way to get them down there? I guess hitching a ride via an Italian transport?

by Tubarush

Is RttA out of print? My FLGS is unable to get a copy through the Alliance distributors.

thanks
-TR

by Tubarush

Is Stone Age out of print? My FLGS is unable to get a copy.

thanks
-TR

by alboy01

I can not agree with the number of minitures l have as per the rule book. The rule book says there are 5 Heroes,7 Villians and 30 Monsters.
I have the following.

5 Heroes
7 Villians
33 Monsters I have 3 of most but 5 of Zombies & 4 of Gargoyles.

Have l got the right number of monsters or have l got 3 extra.

by SlimJim

So, after one play, & reading all the
People who think it is long I plan
On getting it and teaching it to people
With using less cities so as to shorten the first game a bit.
Good idea? Or bad?

by wolfzell

Disclaimer: This is not for the faint of heart. Using this method to remove "pimples" on your board can do serious damage to the surface of your board. So please only try this if you are aware of this risk. Don't do it if you feel unsure if you are up to the task. If you try it, do some tests on cheaper objects before attacking your Crokinole board. I will take absolutely no response for damage done to your board!

When doing the finish for a Crokinole board, it happens that the occasional piece of dust falls into your wet finish. If it hasn't been the last layer of finish, this is no problem as it normally gets sanded down before applying the next layer of finish. But sometimes it happens on your last layer and you don't want to apply another one only because of this stupid single piece of dust...

This is when the "pimple-planer" can be helpful.

This is how you build your personal "pimple-planer":

First it needs to be said that your finish needs to be absolutely dry and hard. So if you try this method on a freshly applied finish, give it at least 2-3 days to dry.

You need a small piece of scrap wood (3cm x 1,5cm, about 12-16mm strong) and sand down all the edges a little. Cut out a piece of sandpaper with very fine grit (600) to the size of the piece of wood (a tiny bit smaller, actually).

Use glue very sparringly on the back of the sandpaper to fix it on to the wooden block.

Take some clear adhesive tape and accurately bandage the outer parts of the block with one layer. The final "pimple planer" should then look like this:



The tape's thickness should prevent the sandpaper from actually touching the surface if you move this sanding block over a flat surface without applying pressure. But pimples looking out of the surface should get sanded down. In any case you need to try this on a surface like a CD cover. If you get scratches, you did something wrong or you will at least need another layer of tape.

With this little device you can now carefully move over your pimple and sand it down until you can't feel any difference to the remaining surface of the finish. Move the planer across the pimple, so the pimple only goes through the middle area, never touching the tape.

Remove the dust often. Don't use pressure! avoid the sand paper to get "hurt". Take it easy! Sometimes you will even have to build a second one when the first is "used up". It is only at the end when you might need to apply a little pressure.

When the pimple is "flat", do a thorough polishing job. I am using abrasive polish wax for this before applying pure wax, but this is for boards with the lines applied *under* the finish.

To make this clear: Never use abrasive wax with the Mayday boards, as you might polish away the lines. Pure carnauba will have to do.

Keep on flickin'!